Changing Planet

Mardi Gras from Louisiana’s Cajun Country

Riders stand on their mounts at the Cajun Courir de Mardi Gras, Church Point, La. Photo by Laura Gerdes Colligan

Growing up in the Greater New Orleans Area, I thought knew everything there was to know about Louisiana Mardi Gras.

I was wrong.

I grew up with the big, spectacular floats and bejeweled kings and queens of New Orleans Carnival. About 150 miles away from the hustle and bustle of the Crescent City’s biggest party of the year, there is another indigenous Mardi Gras celebration in Louisiana’s Cajun country.

This was my first year experiencing the country cousin of my usual Mardi Pardi. My friend Jake and I weaved through country roads following my cousin Laura Gerdes Colligan and her Cajun husband Lucas Colligan — he grew up in Church Point, La., where we were headed to see the Courir de Mardi Gras.  His family property hosts the last stop on the Church Point parade route, a coveted position.

When we arrived at the family estate, it was a different setting from where I usually catch parades in New Orleans. Instead of iron balconies and formidable crowds, space outnumbered people. The property was a few football fields in length.  The houses were far apart and faced the road, sharing acres of land for a backyard.

When we got out the cars, we noticed license plates from across the country: Oregon, Iowa, Nevada and more were spotted, all present to observe this venerable Cajun celebration. Lucas explained that we were parked outside his aunt’s house (the parade crossed on the road in front of her home), and the houses facing the perpendicular street off the shared field all belonged to kin, other aunts and uncles, his own childhood home and the site of his great-grandfather’s dairy and house.

“And, across the street is all cousins,” he said with a smile.

When we entered the house, it was a pretty typical Mardi Gras scene. A clock ticked on the wall that had fives in place of every number. And, though there were more than one hundred people, there was no way we could finish all the food. A huge pot of chicken and sausage gumbo simmered on the stove, which several people assured me was cooked by cousin Paul, the best cook in the state of Louisiana. I have to say that was some damn good gumbo. There was jambalaya, king cake, pralines and, of course, being in Cajun country, boudin — a spicy meat and rice stuffed sausage casing.

A Cajun band played (yes, there was a washboard) on the covered patio. People danced to songs that caught their attention or quietly listened in lawn chairs. A “Cajun microwave,” or enclosed wooden pit, cooked a whole pig inside, a cochon de lait. Guests began to arrive in the traditional Cajun Carnival costumes, especially children.

These fringed fabric outfits stem from medieval satirical dress, similar in appearance to a court jester’s garb.  Since Carnival is historically a time to enjoy life before Lenten penitence, the costumes are a way to make fun of life’s hierarchies. The hats, or capuchons, still worn today at Cajun Mardi Gras reflect these feudal origins: conical hats (capuchons in French) mock nobility, Bishop’s miters represent the papal state and four corner hats symbolize academics.  Similar to New Orleans, parade members wear masks to hide one’s identity and let loose before Lent.

Carnival is a day to turn society on its head and revel in the roles you don’t live on a daily basis. The costumes I saw still reflect these origins, but with a contemporary twist. Some of the fabrics were modern in print, with men in NFL Saints patterns and children’s donning their favorite cartoon characters. One little girl wore a Dora the Explorer emblazoned piece.

The tradition of the Cajun Courir de Mardi Gras, or Fat Tuesday run, was brought with Cajuns from rural France to Acadie (modern Canada) to Louisiana where it evolved into a quest for Gumbo. Men on horseback would travel from house to house throughout a Cajun town, begging for ingredients for a communal gumbo — offerings could be anything from onions to a live chicken.

Today, the gumbo is made before and during the run, not after, and modern stops only collect one item: the chicken.

Every house on the route has a few live chickens or guinea hens ready in a cage to throw for the riders to race and catch  — and the competition is fierce.

A winner of the chicken race proudly displays his catch. Photo by Laura Gerdes Colligan
A winner of the chicken race proudly displays his catch. Photo by Laura Gerdes Colligan

Lucas explained that men ages 15 and up ride in something called the chicken wagon, or large trailers, and go with the men on horseback from house to house competing to catch the most chickens.  The winner gets a trophy at the end of the race. Some families passionately defend this title, their surname synonymous with chicken getting. Lucas said he rode on the wagon in his teens and early 20s.

“I did it every year. It’s a right of passage,” he said, adding that in his tenure he caught about three chickens. Lucas noted that one house varies from the modern chicken tradition, with a race to capture a greased pig.

After the men on horseback dance as an offering for the house and the chickens are caught, they perform a few more stunts and ride on with a parade following. At Lucas’s family compound, the riders and chicken wagon linger here longer than other houses on the route as his is the last stop. And the action is everywhere. The field was inundated with dozens of horses as spectators mingled among them freely. Riders stood on their mounts before swiftly riding off the property as a daunting group.

Men ride out after the chicken race. Photo by Laura Gerdes Colligan
Men ride out after the chicken race. Photo by Laura Gerdes Colligan

The parade that soon followed was different from what you see in New Orleans, though it was just as much fun.

Parade members don’t wear intricate gowns or uniform silk jumpsuits like krewes, parade groups, in the Big Easy. Instead they don themed t-shirts or homemade costumes. The parade was pulled by trucks instead large tractors and floats are adorned with handmade decorations. The overall schedule is pastoral and relaxed.

There are fewer restrictions than at New Orleans parades too, riders can leave their floats and visit with the crowd and coveted parade throws — in addition to beads — are jell-o shots.

After 100 truck floats passed, our necks heavy with beads, Laura, Jake and I sat on the patio with our chairs facing the open field, blue skies and 70-degree weather. There was no rush to get across town or leave the house.

I think I could get used to Cajun Mardi Gras.


Caroline Gerdes recently graduated from Louisiana State University where she studied journalism and history (her major and minor, respectively). As a native of the Greater New Orleans Area, she decided to explore her own backyard with help from a Young Explorers Grant. Caroline is currently conducting an oral history project about the New Orleans Ninth Ward. She seeks to record the community’s full history — its immigrant beginnings, the development of jazz, the depression and prohibition, desegregation and hurricanes. Caroline’s exploration is also a personal quest as her father and paternal grandparents grew up in the Ninth Ward. Her blogs reflect an inside look at New Orleans life and culture, especially the edible aspects.
  • Christine Benoit

    You captured the essence of our Cajun Mardi. Gras. Please come again

  • Cathy Colligan

    Caroline Gerdes, you did a wonderful job with this article. Thanks for sharing our colorful heritage with the rest of the world. It is our honor, not to mention our pleasure, to carry on this time honored tradition from one generation to the next. If it looks and sounds like we are having fun, we are, and we love sharing our “good times” with everyone.
    As our saying goes,
    “Laissez Les Bon Temps Rouler”
    “Let The Good Times Roll”

  • Donnie Fuselier

    I ran Sunday in Church Point as I had ran there last year, several friends came as a group and we met others from our area in Redell, Mamou, Prairie Ronde around and people from Lans Meg & Eunice. It was fun traditional run but with floats and women. I went to street dance Monday night in Mamou and ran Mardi Gras in Mamou and left to go offshore after unsaddling horses and letting them out to pasture at 6pm. It was freezing cold wt windy and rained most of day but we made it. Usually a group of 250 riders some years we only had about 60 riders and 5 on trailer bit warriors who survived after seeing horses laying down or riders falling mud-diving high adrenaline cajuns chasing chickens as ya see one pass you doing 30mph and then hear the crowd of Courir runners coming to get C’est Poulede Gumbo! I love the last day before Lent season.

  • jeanette guidry

    My grandson is one of the riders standing on his horse, if this is to come out in your magazine I would like to buy one. address is 616 Arthur Ave, Lake Arthur, La. 70549. Glad you enjoy your day. My grandson is the one second from the right, Cory Vincent.

  • Cindie Parrott Brooks

    I’m from Church Point Originally…and its great to read articles like this. Thank you!

  • Jennifer Hart (Jenny Meaux)

    This brings back great memories of my childhood. I grew up in Kaplan, La. and the parades are a bit different than this yet still traditional and on a much smaller scale than the Lafayette or New Orleans parades. I would love to visit here during Mardi Gras, very traditional and “old school” Thanks for sharing!

  • Trina Roy

    My son is one of the guys standing on the horses, would love to buy a magazines if it comes out in one. P.O. Box 491 Mermentau, La. 70556 Thanks

  • Kelly Stewart

    We enjoy the parade after the courir in Church Point every year. I encourage you to visit other prairie runs in different areas of Acadiana. It’s amazing how each area has their own version of a run and the song that’s sung varies as well. Come and visit us in Eunice at the Savoy run next year!

  • Steven Perilloux

    This is great for my friends to get wide exposure (pun intended). It’s also bittersweet for me, as I was the photographer who set up and was photographing the opening image to this story for a project I have been working on for several years with my friends that were standing on their horses. I realize everyone has a right to photograph whatever they want during this celebration, but it sure would’ve been nice for me to get photo credit for the image or at least be asked by Laura Gerdes if she could use my idea, as it would not have happened otherwise. Congratulations to Dustin, Chance, and everyone else in the pic.

  • Nathan V.

    @steven Perilloux you deserve full credit for this image if it was your idea. As a fellow artist, I agree this is irresponsible and faux pas in the art world.

  • Danielle

    I came here from down south fl. Bout 7yrs ago I love this state. To this day I still have not seen the mamou mardi gras /this state has the best traditions an the people are so awesome /plus my niece meet and married an awesome Cajun man

  • Bayou Woman

    Does anyone know the name of the rider, third from the left on the white horse? I took great photos of him this year but have no way to identify him.

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