Off the tip of the Horn of Africa, nearly alone in the Arabian Sea, the large, rugged, iconic island of Socotra sits, with plants, scenery, and mysteries utterly its own (see photos of Socotra).
Our mission is to document the presence of rock art located in the depths of Dahaisi cave using the latest photographic techniques. We are hoping they will help us uncover and study the animal and human figures, crosses, and strange array of geometric patterns that adorn the walls of the final chamber.
The beginning of our arduous journey into Socotra’s deep interior was broken up by fragrant groves of frankincense, dragon’s blood trees that look like prickly inverted umbrellas, and a multitude of bizarrely shaped flowering desert roses. During this part of the journey it was clear why Socotra is considered a jewel of biodiversity, and aptly named the “Galapagos of the Indian Ocean.”
Having climbed a particularly hazardous stretch of what can be best described as a goat track we finally reached Momi plateau, our home for the next couple of weeks. In the distance we could begin to make out our destination.
As we entered under the branches of the fig tree that stands as a sentinel at the entrance to Dahaisi cave, one could not help thinking about the local legend of a giant white snake that preys on those foolish enough to enter the caves of Socotra. With visions of this beast slithering towards us we began our descent into the dark.
Once we had entered a hundred meters inside the cave, all outside light had vanished and we were totally reliant on our torches to find our way around.
This was the first time photographer Daniel Britton and I had entered this cave and we were both a bit apprehensive, taking our time, inching around obstacles, and generally moving slowly. Dirk van Dorpe and Peter de Geest, the experinced cavers on our team, were moving along a good bit faster and had already begun sweating. By the time we reached the deeper recesses of the cave we had all worked up a sweat.
The temperature is a balmy 24°C (75°F), but the humidity was 90 percent and climbing. With sweat pouring off us, and not a snake in sight we reached the last challenge. All that lay between us and the final chamber was an enormous fallen stalagmite that looked as if it had been torn off the ceiling and flung into the passage by a giant who wanted to prevent us reaching our goal. Squeezing past this obstacle we made the last drop into the final chamber.
As our torch light started to play on the walls of the chamber we were rewarded with the sight of the most unique and exciting images any of us had ever seen. Human and animal figures adorned the walls and a variety of crosses, boats, and geometric patterns could be found everywhere. The feelings of amazement and awe that washed over us had all stunned into silence for several minutes.Peter de Geest and Dirk van Dorpe grab their pencils and paper and begin recording the art of Dahaisi cave. (Photo by Daniel Britton)
While our journey to the cave has come to an end the work is just about to begin. The task before us is immense. Documenting all the rock art here will take time and we will have to spend long hours in the dark coming out only to eat, sleep, and charge our equipment at the campsite.
The remoteness of this site has its own challenges. There will be no luxuries on this trip. To post this blog I have had to undertake another arduous trip to the capital, where the internet connection is poor at best. What a great adventure!