This week, our pursuit of the Solomon Islands’ elusive bumphead parrotfish brought us from the bustling fishery surrounding the town of Gizo to the slower, more subsistence-based fishery near the village of Munda.
A two-hour boat ride over calm seas seemingly transported the two of us back in time. We’ve set up camp on nearby Lola Island, residing in a traditional leaf hut not unlike a Swiss family Robinson construction where roosters, reef sharks, and red ants are aplenty, but electricity, running water, and telephone service are ephemeral.
From Lola’s windy and wavy coastline, a small and circular island with a violent but sacred history is visible. Dozens of skulls belonging to ancient Solomon chiefs now sit atop stone shrines enclosing the heads of their victims from inter-island tribal raids hundreds of years ago. It was incredibly eerie to set foot on Skull Island (no King Kong here, we hoped!) and tread carefully among the bones as we spent the day preparing to conduct fieldwork on the islands’ surrounding reefs (see video above).
Since our arrival here our research team has expanded. On each dive, we’re fortunate to be accompanied by the wise and watchful eyes of an experienced local dive master named Sunga Boso. An expressive storyteller, it was thrilling to hear about Skull Island’s history from someone whose own family heritage is tightly connected to head-hunting practices of the past—Sunga’s great-grandfather was spared from a sacrificial head-hunting ceremony as an infant.
Also recently joining our field team is a marine scientist from the U.S. National Park Service, Sly Lee. As founder of The Hydrous, a not-for-profit organization devoted to increasing public access to marine ecosystems, Sly is pioneering a new method to model corals in 3-D so more people can experience this part of our world that few get to explore in person.
As bumpheads consume more than five tons of coral reef per individual per year, we want to test the use of this emerging technology to measure and track the changes they cause in coral form and function. Sly is here to lend his expertise and help us model dozens of coral colonies during his visit.
The reefs surrounding Skull Island were filled with bright and healthy Poccilloporid corals making it a perfect venue for modelling bumpheads’ favorite food.
The method we use to turn live corals into digital models involves one scuba diver taking hundreds of photographs of a single coral colony from every possible vantage point. We then feed the images into a program that stitches the photographs into a three-dimensional replica that is easily manipulated. You can try your hand at manipulating corals here or by clicking the screenshot below.
Our team’s next stop is Tetepare, the world’s largest uninhabited island where bumpheads are said to roam in large herds in the surrounding protected waters. We’ll spend two nights on this wild island next week and will report back soon!