Serbia

Located some 350 kilometers south of Belgrade is the town of Bujanovac. It’s a quiet place full of cafes and mismatched houses. The kind of place where children are free to roam the streets because there is always a neighbor watching from a nearby window. Though the Kosovo War is widely known in the international community, most people...

Marka never throws any wool away in case she needs to repair something later. I consider this, and wonder how many scraps she’s held on to after a lifetime of knitting. Marka Kukučka is 81 years old and belongs to the last generation of Slovaks in Serbia who fully maintain their old world customs. Everyday, she wears traditional...

A surreal feeling washed over me as I entered the white building behind the city’s main bus station for the first time. An abandoned, windowless place hidden in plain sight. Belgrade was all gray outside with winter fast approaching. I exhaled and it was the first day cold enough to see my breath. Inside the crumbling building, scarves stretching across...

Most tourists visiting Serbia, if they manage to make it out of Belgrade at all, will likely only see a handful of the country’s other popular cities. Most tourists are missing out. For travelers seeking an experience away from the city lights, Vojvodina’s many salaš destinations offer a quiet escape, and hearty meals, amidst rich...

Ne razumem, I tell my grandmother. I don’t understand. A familiar routine follows: I call my father long-distance from Serbia and ask him to translate for us. “Nana is trying to tell me something; I can’t figure it out,” I say, frustrated with my brain’s inability to grasp a language I once imagined would be instinctive...